Merino vs. cashmere vs. mohair: which wool is right for you?

Three fibres come up again and again when people choose a hand-knit piece: merino, cashmere, and mohair. They're often blended, sometimes confused, and priced very differently. Here's how to think about which one suits you — written from the perspective of a workshop that knits with all three every week.

Quick comparison

Merino wool

Merino comes from the merino sheep, a breed selected over centuries for ultra-fine fibres. The fibre is typically 17–24 microns thick — fine enough that it doesn't trigger the "scratchy wool" sensation most people associate with cheaper wool sweaters.

Strengths. Merino is the workhorse of natural fibres. It regulates body temperature both ways (warms in cold, breathes in mild), resists odour, and holds its shape well. It's also the most accessible price-wise of the three.

Weaknesses. Less luxurious to the touch than cashmere. Slightly heavier than cashmere or mohair for the same warmth.

Best for. Everyday scarves, hats, socks, and base-layer-style pieces you wear often. If you want one wool piece that does everything, this is it.

Cashmere

Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, brushed out by hand once a year. The yield per goat is small — roughly 200 grams of usable fibre — which is why cashmere is expensive.

Strengths. Extraordinarily soft, far warmer per gram than merino, and very light. A cashmere headscarf weighs almost nothing on the head while keeping ears warm in well-below-freezing weather.

Weaknesses. Pure cashmere is delicate. Pills more than merino in the first weeks. More expensive.

Best for. Pieces worn close to skin (headscarves, neck wraps), gifts, occasions where weight matters (travel, evening wear). We often blend it with merino — usually 30% cashmere, 70% merino — to get the soft hand without the price or fragility of pure cashmere.

Mohair

Mohair comes from the angora goat. The fibre is longer and shinier than wool or cashmere, with a characteristic slight halo of fuzz around the surface of finished pieces.

Strengths. Visually striking. Holds dye beautifully, so colour comes out vivid. Surprisingly warm for how light it is. Resists wrinkling.

Weaknesses. The halo effect isn't for everyone — some people love the fluffy texture, others find it scratchy or visually too soft. Sheds slightly when new.

Best for. Statement pieces — oversized scarves, evening shawls, decorative trim on bags or hats. Mohair shines (literally) when you want a piece that catches light.

What we choose, and why

Across our catalogue you'll see all three, sometimes solo, sometimes blended. A few patterns:

• Headscarves and neck pieces. Often a merino-cashmere blend for softness against skin without the cost of pure cashmere. Our Cashmere-Blend Headscarf is exactly this.
• Hats and beanies. Usually pure merino — durable, washable, holds shape after years of pulling on and off.
• Statement scarves. Mohair when we want a piece to feel like an object as much as a garment.
• Vests, sweaters, socks. Merino, almost always. Pure or blended with cotton in summer pieces.

How to choose for yourself

Three questions that usually settle it:

1. How often will you wear it? Daily-wear pieces: merino. Occasional: any of the three.
2. How sensitive is your skin? If wool has always itched you: cashmere or a fine merino-cashmere blend.
3. What's the climate? Sub-zero winters: cashmere or mohair for layering, merino as a base. Mild winters and shoulder seasons: merino is enough.

A note on blends

Most of what we make is blended. Pure cashmere pills more than blended cashmere. Pure mohair sheds. Merino on its own is excellent but blending with even 10% cashmere transforms how it feels. We blend not to cut costs — we blend to get the best characteristics of each fibre into one piece.

If you're choosing between two pieces and can't decide, message us. We'll tell you which one works for your climate and your wardrobe — including talking you out of one if neither's right.